The side of the section is quite sloping and was very overgrown when we moved in. I ripped up the grass and plotted out where I wanted my vegetable retainers to sit, using some twine tied to sticks. I opted for a slight angle to them both, but they can sit in any direction you choose.

Under the house were some strips of rounded, treated timber, which were perfect for the job. I cut some of the smaller lengths up into stakes, using a mitre saw to spike or point up the ends. I then used a club hammer to insert them into the ground, ensuring they were evenly distributed. Be careful not to knock the stakes out of alignment when hammering them in (this is quite easy to do!). If you do knock it out of line, gently use the club hammer to straighten the stake up before continuing its downward journey.

Once the stakes were in place, I used the saw to cut the longer lengths of wood to the required length. These were then simply nailed on, leaving me with some empty vegetable patch containers.

I spent a few long hours sieving out the soil in the garden, because I wanted to re-use it. Another option is to just buy the soil and give it a good mix with some compost. I have heard of soil being available to buy for as little as $40 (NZD) a square metre.

I started some carrots, lettuce and cauliflower from seed in the house and moved them out after a few weeks. A great tip for seeding is to grow them in those large cardboard egg trays, with a little compost in. When the time comes to move them outside, you simply have to cut the cups out and plant them as they are. The roots soon push through the damp cardboard and set themselves in the ground.

I have to say, the best thing about making these retainers is the cost. The wood was left behind by the previous owners, but even if it hadn’t, the wood would have been obtained from a builder’s yard for a reasonable price. There are loads of retaining wall styles and designs, a lot of which can be found on the internet. They are also very easy to build.

I know things don’t yet look superb in the pictures, but it is a start. When the weather picks up a bit, I think I will do some more work outside. In the meantime, let’s paint upstairs…

1. Always follow your grout manufacturer’s instructions when mixing up the grout. Never be tempted to add more water than specified.

2. Only mix as much grout as you can use in half an hour. Grout will begin to harden straight away and could be prone to cracking if used after this. Devise a method of accurately measuring the precise amounts of grout and water used in each mixing session, this will ensure you always end up with the same colour or shade of grout (if using coloured grouts!)

3. When grouting, scoop off as much grout as possible from the tiles, then focus on the shaping of the joints! Do not allow yourself to be tempted to start polishing the tiles yet. The joints are hardening, so these must be shaped now. Remember: If you’re using waterproof grout, you must doubly ensure that all the grout is removed from the surface of the tiles before continuing to shape the joints.

4. The main thing to remember when grouting is to not panic. If there’s a section you are not happy with, simply go back and redo it before it dries. Like in all DIY tasks, you are better off taking an extra five minutes now, than spending five minutes of every day you look at the result regretting not fixing it when you could!

5. Begin polishing when grout has dried. Glazed surfaces should polish up relatively easily. Some surfaces are porous and will have absorbed a certain amount of grout in the process. Don’t panic, all this means is you’re going to need something slightly stronger to clean it off. There are lots of after-market products that claim to remove dried grout, but these will cost a lot more than a small amount of a readily available chemical: hydrochloric acid. Simply mix a very small part to five parts water. Wear protective rubber gloves and use the coarse side of a pan-scourer to test a small, hidden area of your tiles. If the tiles suffer no reaction, then rub a small amount over the affected areas. Wipe down with a slightly damp cloth when finished and allow the tiles to dry. Repeat if necessary.

Here are five kitchen renovation ideas that will turn your kitchen around, without running your bank balance aground:

1. Fit a new worktop
Perhaps the most effective way to change the look of a kitchen, bar a repaint, is to change those tired or out of date looking worktops for a newer design. If you don’t intend to change the layout of the cupboards, the measuring is already done for you, and most worktops are simply screwed down from inside the cupboards. Add a touch of silicone sealant and the odd finishing joint and you can change the look of your kitchen overnight.

2. Add a tile surround or splash-back
A neat and good value addition to a kitchen comes in the form of tiles. Constantly in fashion, tiles can be added along the worktop and help protect the walls from any water or messy accidents. Tiles also represent your chance to express some creativity, as the final design is entirely up to you. The possibilities are endless!

3. Fit a new sink
If you are going for a new worktop, it may be wise to fit a new sink at the same time. Even a bargain sink will look shiny when fitted and will add some instant attraction to the kitchen. A new set of taps will go a long way to extend this and while you are at it, I would strip out the crusty looking, leaking waste pipe and put a new one in. Even for beginners, fitting a new waste pipe will only take a few minutes once you get started.

4. Refinish the cupboard doors
If your cupboard doors are made of solid wood, either painted or varnished, consider stripping them down and refinishing them with either a new paint, varnish or stain. Your local DIY store will have a range of suitable varnishes and stains on display. Fitting a 21st century style of handle to doors and draws will also help bring a kitchen into the present.

5. Fit a laminate floor
Fitting a laminate floor in your kitchen is a great value way of adding style and functionality to a kitchen. These floors are resistant to water and easy to keep clean. No more peas squashed into the carpet! Make sure you choose a darker finish, if possible, as these are harder to stain.

Here, I’ve enlisted my top five tips when it comes to choosing the right renovation project:

1. The most important, and indeed obvious, thing to do when buying any home is to get a proper building report carried out by a professional building surveyor. This will highlight any structural defects the property may have and will simply save you from parting with your money on a house that is due to fall down next year. Some areas may offer additional property reports, often held at the local council offices. Ours were called LIM report and Property Bag. The LIM (Land Information Memorandum) basically told us everything the property had been through since it was built, i.e. any additions, extensions, refused permissions to build, past issues, etc. The Property Bag had the blueprints for the original house, details of how the septic tank was installed and operated and lots of other information on the building. I strongly recommend you view these or their equivalents, where available.

2. Are cosmetics the main problem with the house? Can you envisage the interior looking fantastic with just a new coat of paint and a new carpet? If so, this is looking good.

3. Get a second opinion. Take a friend or family member, preferably someone with DIY or renovation experience to have a look around the house with you. Ask them for their opinions and ideas. Attempt to suss out whether they would buy the property, if in your situation. Don’t try and cannonball them into agreeing to help at this stage! Save that for the house-warming…

4. Write down the first five or ten things you want to change and have a look online for some job costs. I know you will probably do the work yourself, but it’s a good idea to get a worse case scenario quote, just in case you decide against carrying out the work yourself.

5. What chattels are included in the sale? Often chattels will include the stove/cooker and an open fire/log burner. They usually won’t include paintings, vases or anything of this nature, even if the home isn’t lived in. Real estate agents often hire items like these in to assist with the sale. If you are going to be relying on any of these items being included in the sale, ensure you check they are in good working order. Also, from the time you declare the sale unconditional to the time you move in, try to make a final inspection visit. Check these items are still present and in the same condition.

Whatever your level, there are a few things you can do to ensure you get the most out of your trip to your local DIY store. Here’s my top five tips:

1. Most stores will have an array of leaflets offering masses of DIY tips, how to advice, instructions and guidance. Pick up as many as you think will apply in the future and file them at home for when you need them. Some DIY centres will also offer free training classes, usually at weekends. These are excellent for learning the basics or gaining improvement tips. I also know of people who have been inspired for ideas from attending these.

2. The staff at your local DIY store will usually work there because they love DIY. Don’t be intimidated by them: Talk to them, make use of their knowledge and passions. You don’t have to buy anything to receive their advice.

3. Some stock is delicate and may be subject to breakages before it’s even been touched by a customer. A lot of damaged stock is thrown away each year, often just because nobody bought it. DIY stores can limit their loss by selling this damaged stock off cheap, so do not be afraid to ask! Split bags of compost, dented paint cans, broken paving slabs, broken terracotta pieces, wood offcuts are often available at a bargain price. Remember, it’s saving the store on waste collection costs, so don’t feel guilty about asking!

4. Be aware that demand for some items is a lot higher than others. Some nails and screws are regarded as ’specialised’ just because their length isn’t a particularly common one. If you are not after a specific item, look for the common size in the range. You will be able to spot these as they will have the lowest price per packet!

5. I hate to write one against the DIY stores, but it’s true that with a little thought, planning and time, you can make some items yourself, sometimes to a better standard. This often applies to mass produced wooden items like decorative planters. Use the store as your ideas showroom, then go away and search online for similar designs. You can save heaps this way.

I have already discussed our plans for the stretch of land down the side of the house in a previous post. This stretch of land also represented the perfect spot for a compost bin. I once lived in Surrey, England, and the local council sent us a free compost bin, but being a student household, we weren’t there long enough to benefit from it. Unfortunately, upon arrival at this house, Waitakere City Council did not furnish us with a free compost bin. A trip to the local shops also revealed them to cost around $50 NZD, which isn’t a massive cost for what it provides, but I wanted to do better. That’s when I spotted the plastic drum tucked down the side of the house. This plastic drum became our compost bin, which was a darn sight better than throwing the drum away and buying a new compost bin!

The first thing I did was cut both ends off the drum. Using an old saw, I scored a straight line, parallel with the top edge of the drum and then began to cut along it, removing the top. I then did the same with the bottom, leaving just the body of the drum, open at both ends.

A short length of leftover framing timber was cut into three cubes, roughly 10cm in length. I then used some old screws that I’d found elsewhere in the house to screw them to the body, roughly 2cm from the top, on the inside of the bin. These are to hold the lid of the bin.

I screwed a longer piece of framing timber into the bottom of the bin, to act as a handle. This made up the lid.

The final job was selecting a position for the compost bin. Due to the lid’s design, a sheltered place was preferable, as I didn’t want it collecting too much rain. It is also important, for the creation of compost, that the bin isn’t too cold.

Having selected a location, I drove the body of the bin into the ground slightly, by rotating it and pushing down at the same time. This helps with keeping it in position. I placed the lid on top and there it was! My own, home made, compost bin, made entirely from re-used materials.

The only thing I am not entirely happy with is the blue colour. Whilst this has been partly covered by the vine growth on the side, it has not completely solved this problem. Any ideas will be greatly accepted…

The best piece of money saving advice I can give you when it comes to kitchen renovations is ‘refurbish, don’t replace’. Take a good long look at your kitchen. Try the cupboard doors. Open a drawer. Is it just that you are tired of the tired looking worktop, a drawer doesn’t open and you have a hole in the cupboard door? Those are no reasons for a new kitchen!

Most DIY books will give good instructions on fitting a new worktop (Tip: When cutting, remember to place masking tape firmly along the line you are cutting to help prevent chipping!). The cupboard doors can be replaced, or better still, sanded down and re-varnished in a colour of your choosing. The hole can be filled with a small chip of the same type of wood. Oh, and the drawer probably just needs a new runner. It also goes without saying that a lick of paint can go a long way to improving a room.

Grab a pen and paper and write down all the things you dislike about your kitchen. Include everything. Obviously items like cookers and dishwashers may need replacing, but these are rarely the heart and soul of the kitchen. If the final list, to you, represents a somewhat doable list of DIY tasks, then congratulations, you have just saved yourself a lot of money! All you need to do now is have a glance at some kitchen websites or perhaps some design magazines and choose some styles that you would like to recreate.

Remember the less money you spend on perfecting your home, the greater your overall gain at time of sale!

Keeping the renovating cost down is not always easy. Some tasks require professional workmanship, often for your own safety amongst other reasons, which can drive the cost up. There are, however, a plethora of improvements to a home that can be carried out yourself and help keep the cost down.

If you are capable with most DIY tasks and are happy to undertake some tasks yourself, you leave yourself in complete control over the tools and materials used, offering further potential cost reductions. Here are my top 3 tips to achieving lower renovating costs:

1.Reuse as many materials as you can. Look under your house. In the garage; the shed. Even other peoples’ skips can hold treasures for your home. Obviously always knock and ask the owner before removing something from a skip! Before you chop up that piece of timber for the fire, ask yourself if it carries any other potential purpose in your home, like, perhaps, skirting repair or even a small shelf. The reusing of any materials already owned, or available free or at low cost, can massively help drive down your renovating costs, so give this some thought.

2.Now, I would never suggest trying to skimp when it comes to purchasing tools. I have had too many heads fall off hammers for that. What I would suggest, where logic prevails, is the purchasing of second hand tools. Check out your local flea markets, you never know what you might find. I recently bought a recently sharpened chisel for $5 NZD (About $2.50 USD) from our local village market. I would also recommend charity shops for any DIY/home improvement books you may want along the way. Popular techniques have barely changed over the years, so it often doesn’t matter whether you’re buying the fifth edition, or the first.

3.Keep doing what you are doing and stay online! The internet is quickly becoming a massive resource for renovating techniques and cost saving ideas. There are plenty of sites out there that can inspire, guide and inform on the job you wish to carry out, so keep your eyes open and remember: the more informed you are, the less it will cost.

Leading up from the drive on the left, there is a front deck. Which spans half the width of the house and sits in front of the patio sliders. Down the right hand side of this deck and the house is a strip of land, running the depth of the house, at about 5 metres in width. It is scrappy, messy land that I am tempted to describe as wasteland. What the heck! I will.

Out the rear of the house is a large rear deck, which extends round to the front left, by the drive. the fourth ‘garden’ is truly that. A large amount of native bushland. Very green.

Of the four, it is the messy wasteland that I want to sort out first. Not only is it a complete waste of land, but also it looks messy and depressing. Nothing helps add value to a home more than the first impression on offer, and being at the front of the section, this plays a very big part in the first impressions of the house.

A brief dig under the surface of the grass has revealed a load of stones, which have presumably been there since the house was built, put down to support vehicles and machinery used during the building.

I want to tidy up this area and cultivate it with plants and vegetables. It is sloping down a hill, so I will have to section off parts and fill and level with soil and compost. Luckily there is plenty of wood under the house that will do for sections. The pebbles will have to go, but the topsoil looks in a good state. The shed is ok for now, but will definitely be replaced with something that can stand up straight when the budget allows.

To allow enough sunlight in to this area, the development options are sadly limited to little more than a driveway on this side. There is a half-hearted attempt at a driveway already there, but we are thinking two rough looking brick lines may look nice. Or perhaps that could be the use for all this leftover gravel?

The improvements have got to allow access under the house, which, as you can see here, won’t be too much of an issue. It also has to allow access to the septic tank, located under the plywood cover halfway up. I have asked a number of people about the septic tank and the dangers associated with its proximity to the vegetable garden, but nobody has expressed concern. Apparently they are located too deep in the ground for any hygiene issues.

One last thing, you may have spotted in the rear of two of the pictures a large blue barrel. That’s our compost bin, which I must confess, I produced within 48 hours of living in the house. It’s doing a grand job and I will show you how to make your own very soon.

As our inspecting builder pointed out, the issues were mostly cosmetic. Yeah sure it’s needing a new bathroom floor downstairs, a lick of paint upstairs, a garden makeover, a new carpet throughout, but there’s over 1000 metres squared of native bush down there, and four bedrooms up there. Believe me, for the price we paid, it’s all good!

We don’t only want a cheap renovation, we want to do it right. Right for me is to use as much as we can of what is already there. The previous owners have left stuff behind, most previous owners do, but these guys really left loads behind. In the garden there was an old container barrel, under the house a few hundred white bathroom tiles buried in the dirt and don’t even get me started on the shed! I don’t mind this at all. They are all useful materials. Even those that don’t immediately seem it, are.

So that is the plan: to turn this place into our dream home, re-using as many materials and as much stuff as we can.

First up is the garden makeover. Check it out soon!